EcoRenovator - Sanyo 24KHS72 AC/HP DIY install project

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Hello Xringer,
Please check how much "Dirty Electricity" is produced by your babies.
It's well known that inverters are the main source of that for residential circuits.
It's very hazardous for health. Just Google "Dirty electricity"
You need to add a low pass filter next to switch boxes to maintain good sinusoidal 60Hz. Looks like you quite qualified to measure and mitigate that high frequency noise.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Xringer (Post 30928)

It's August 1, 2013 and I've just dumped out the TED data.
For the year, 4032 kWh burned. $685 year / $57 month / $1.88 per day, at 17 cents per kWh.

LOL! I just checked the price of diesel fuel (aka #2 fuel oil) and $685 will buy us about $171 gallons of heating oil!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by bpm636 (Post 31709)

Hello Xringer,
Please check how much "Dirty Electricity" is produced by your babies.
It's well known that inverters are the main source of that for residential circuits.

It's very hazardous for health. :eek: Just Google "Dirty electricity"
You need to add a low pass filter next to switch boxes to maintain good sinusoidal 60Hz. Looks like you quite qualified to measure and mitigate that high frequency noise.

Wow, that's crazy! :confused: The amount of "Dirty electricity" you get from your house will not hurt you. :thumbup: If you live under high voltage power lines or next to a residential power sub station maybe you can be hurt. :rolleyes: No proof has been found that backs up any of it. Except people like you that are glad their still alive, after Dec 21, 2012. :D

Have a nice day,

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vern2 (Post 31710)

...The amount of "Dirty electricity" you get from your house will not hurt you. If you live under high voltage power lines or next to a residential power sub station maybe you can be hurt. No proof has been found that backs up any of it. Except people like you that are glad their still alive, after Dec 21, 2012...

Admittedly, it's been a while since I had my ham license current. But the last time I looked at the book that was published by those extreme left-wing, tinfoil hat wearing, hysterical, astrological wackos who call themselves the American Radio Relay League (AKA: "ARRL")... right there in the front of the book (The ARRL Handbook), was a plainly worded warning, that clearly spelled out the potential health dangers of low power electro magnetic radiation... like the levels from electric blankets and electric shavers (and potentially other sources, too).

Here's a link to their current statement.

I found this to be very interesting, especially when I recalled that the very heart and soul of the ARRL is based on electro magnetic radiation.

What do you suppose infected their overheated brains Vern?

Maybe you should contact the ARRL and set them straight... I'm sure they'd like to hear from you.

-AC

The amount of EMI one of those inverters puts out is pretty small, especially if it's designed to meet class B requirements. Combine that with distance and you realistically don't have to worry about it. Chances are, you're getting far more EMI from the keyboard you were typing on.

If you're worried about it or are actually having (radio reception) problems with the EMI, some ferrite cores will work well to attenuate it.

I need to put some of those ferrite cores on my solar charge controller.
It's a PWM charger that really buzzes up the lower RF bands..

Quote:

Originally Posted by Xringer (Post 4363)

Found a place locally that sells this 2-stage pump..

Robinair 15150 Vacuum Pump, 1.5 CFM, Two Stage, 110V

Robinair 15150, 15300, and 15500 1.5, 3, and 5 CFM VacuMaster Vacuum Pump - on Sale at the Test Equipment Depot

They have a pretty good price, even with the taxes..

Are you happy with this pump? would you get it again? I would be using it on a Mini split system like you did.

No problems so far. I change the oil before each use. When I first got it, I did some testing.
It might be posted on this thread.. Can't remember.

Quote:

Originally Posted by pinballlooking (Post 32080)

Are you happy with this pump? would you get it again? I would be using it on a Mini split system like you did.

My vac pump is in about the same league, and I'm also pleased.

Xringer's advice about fresh oil every use is an important point to keep in mind. Every time you use the unit, the oil absorbs moisture and any other gaseous contaminate.

So, you want fresh oil with each use, AND if you're going to be storing your vac pump, you should put fresh, uncontaminated oil in it to prevent possible pump corrosion.

Cheap insurance.

-AC

Quote:

Originally Posted by Xringer (Post 20568)

The last step is for your HVAC guy (R410A certified) to perform..
Be sure to get him to sign your warranty card, where it says installer.

I think the best way to do it, is to have a good cut-off valve on your hose at the service port,
1. shut it off, (the cut-off)
2. then turn off the pump.
3. then release the R410A with the hex key. (Both valves).
4. Remove (quickly) the service adapter (using gloves).

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...NCL/R052-1.jpg

If your valves leak a little when turned(like mine),
you might want to shut off a valve on your micron meter(isolating it),
while leaving the pump running (holding a hard vac).

And then start cracking the service valve (liquid line as in the pic),
and then quickly shut off the cut-off valve on the port, when the
first whiff of R410A hisses into the line set.
You will hear a sudden change in the sound of the pump motor.
Once the cut-off is shut, kill the pump and then open both service valves.

Since your hose has a push pin, there will be pressure inside the service adapter.
Use gloves when you (quickly) unscrew the adapter.
If you do it real slow, there will be a loss of R410A. Not good.

You also might want to do another soap bubble test at this point..
If you did a good pressure test before, doing it again under R410A pressures
is not likely to show up any leaks.

In my manual, they said to open the valve for 10 seconds and the shut it,
(releasing pressure into the line set and then locking that pressure in).
so, a second bubble check to be performed.

What model did you get?? :D

I had not ordered a extra cut off valve . After reading this I just order one form Auto zone it says it is a R12 cut off valve but it is ¼ and it is only being used for N2 and vacuum so I don’t see why it won’t work.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=952206_0_0_

This post is very useful for me. I have read a lot on installing my mini split and this is the first place I have seen this part spelled out. I was wondering what the best way was to not put air into the nicely hard vac AC.
Thanks! for the info.

Just joined and wanted to say hello and more importantly thank Xringer and AC Hacker for the detailed information within these threads. Honestly, I can't thank you (and everyone else for their contribution) enough.

Last weekend I installed a Mitsubishi split with the MHK1 (re-branded Honeywell Focus Pro) and RedLINK gateway. I plan to eventually post all the information/pics but will hold off until I actually start up the equipment. I ran into something completely unexpected. It seems that the Mitsubishi systems (may exclude city series) don't utilize a 5/16" service port (expected when working with 410), rather they have chosen to maintain a 1/4". This rendered my ball valve/core removal tool useless and since no one locally would sell me the proper size, I had to defer to the internet (should receive today).

So for those considering the Mr. Slims, this was the only thing stopping me last weekend from completing the install.