Drainage
 

Used about 4" of the included black hose, clamped onto some 1/2" PEX.
The long drain hose was pushed up inside the PEX (VERY tight).
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...W/P1000720.jpg


Used another piece of 1/2" PEX to adapt the small hose to the pan fitting. Also air-tight.
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...W/P1000721.jpg

The Black Hole of Calcutta
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...W/P1000722.jpg
This is the 1956 sump hole. Equipped with electric sump pump (w/ solar/batt back-up)
and city water-pressure-powered pump (if everything else fails).

Normally water dumped in here is absorbed within the hour.

I agree that it's quite unlikely that the heat pump water heater will draw the basement down to 32F. At the same time though, I think it's progressively less likely that the basement floor will ever be as high as 64F in the winter again.


I know that Xringer was amazed at the geothermal potential of his 64F winter basement (which was higher than average for his locale... as I recall, he thought it was due to radioactive decay), but it is my hunch that his higher than average 'geothermal heat reserve' was actually being supplied by his huge oil burning radiant baseboard boiler that roared away in the basement for decades. He quit using that oil burning boiler full time, a few years ago, but has been using it daily to heat water, intermittently but daily since then.

I would suspect that there has been a gradual basement temperature decline since full time operation was cut, and now that he is not intermittently firing the boiler on a daily basis, but rather is extracting heat from the basement air, I would expect that the floor's temperature will continue to decline.

I think that the floor temp will continue it's seasonal swings, but those swings will trend in a downward direction, and the swing's centerline will eventually stabilize (maybe three years hence) at some point a bit lower than the average for Xringer's locale.

By my reconing, because of the thermal inertia of the earth, his basement's lowest temp month will probably occur around March-April.


His temps will be different, but the thermal lag will be about the same.


Best,

-AC

I'll see how this AirTap works in cold weather. Have to wait until winter. :(
But, even if it only works during the summer, it will still save us $2 a day in oil.:D


I don't think there is a lot of residual heat (under us) from my oil burning days.
With the high water table, that flows downhill, that heat would be carried away by the raining/flooding pretty quickly.
(The log shows the boiler is staying between 75 & 85 degs F. Due to Solar PV).


From what I have learned from a local Geyser owner, his unit works pretty well during the winter.
electric hybrid waterheaters - Page 5

His unheated basement is about the same size as mine and his Geyser works okay.
SteveK is a mini-split fan like me, so there is no heating system warming up his basement..
If I'm lucky, the basement might not get much colder than normal in the winter..

Maybe to meet your de-humidification goal you will need to rent a room out to a teenager or two. The income from the rent will offset the cost for other eco-renovativating projects and the constant long showers will help you meet the goals of de-humidification with the Air-taps operation to meet the need.

Best wishes for Mrs Xringer
Randen

I've been re-thinking that goal, and I've considered the fact, that new dehumidifier (from HD last summer) wasn't exactly cheap.
And, maybe I should use it a little more.. Just to get at least a little work out of it. (It's still looks brand new)!


The AirTap got a good work-out yesterday. Two showers, after my we did a few miles on the bikes.
It was a nice comfy evening and we just had to do some bike riding.
Had to walk them up the hills, which is okay by me. One day at a time. :)
In a few weeks, we'll be back on the Lexington bike path! :cool:

Anyways, I'll come back here and post some performance info,
when there are changes. Like when it starts getting cooler.


~~~
http://www.ebay.com/itm/120832618149
IMHO, The A7 AirTap is not for everybody:

Let me be clear. The total project cost was about $800 and having a hybrid
water heater installed, would likely be cheaper after local rebates etc.

Installing the Airtap A7 is a DIY project, just like if you used an old AC to build-it yourself. (Only with a lot less labor).
There is no UL label on the A7. And it does not have a double-walled HX, like units you might buy at Sears etc.

DIYers should know what can happen if devices they build cause damage to their insured property.

If you have modified a product in any way, you could have problems with your insurance co.
Even if the mods were made using all UL approved parts.

In the past, insurance policies had a ton of fine-print, to protect the company from the need to pay out money, under a lot of circumstances.
I know of one case where a new bench grinder was used by the insurance
company, as a reason not to pay, when a large furniture store burned down.
The insurance co. said the grinder was 'industrial' equipment.
The owner of the store lost everything (millions), even his home.

FYI, Brazed Plate HX on eBay, 23 available for cheap
 

More info on this HX:
It is a 3” x 8” x 1.5” overall, 14 plate (12 active, +2 end plates)
½” SS tube ports. No brand markings, Stamped numbers: 12445 and 834148.
12 active surfaces approx.2.75“ x 5.5” = approx. 150+ sq.” HX surface.

Similar to:
1. Brazetek BT3x8-10. 10 plate 435psi @435F $89.
2. GEA PHE Systems, USA GBX108. 10 plate, 650psi @350F
3. Duda Diesel B3-12A 10 plate, $40.
4.PEX Supply FG3X8-14 14 plate, 1.75”, 450 psi @350F (maybe the closest)
5.B&G BP400-10LP 10 plate 150psi @250F $135.

Good design info among these similar HXs. Different P&T ratings are from qual tests for different apps. All basicly same design, with and without embossed plate designs.

Xringer,

What temperature are you running the A7 at? My wife does dishes while the dish washer sets. She had me change 50 gal HW to 135. She's not complaining any more, the water must be hot enough.

My mini split install will be in the same room as the A7, see Garage shop 50 gal hot water heater, below. Do you see any problem with that? I know they might not work well if the mini split is putting out heat. I'm monitoring 50 gal hot water heater with TED. Please take a look at my last two weeks of monitoring, below. Remember this is the hot time of the year, so the readings are very low. Today it's 112 degrees here PHX, AZ. Can you tell me if installing an A7 is a good deal for me?

I'm total electric, energy consumption is being provided by solar. Adding a mini split for the garage, so I'm looking to cut down somewhere else.

http://www.enichesoftware.com/media/springtilt.jpg
This is actually the spring tilt, for panels.

http://www.enichesoftware.com/shop/shop layout.jpg
I'm close to moving into the new Tan area, tool room. Electric done, starting on compressed air around the walls.

I have an HX that's good for R410A pressures.
http://ecorenovator.org/forum/geothe...hw-heater.html
Not sure where I'll end up using it.. Might have to sell it for a profit.. ;)

Hi Vern,
Our hotwater mixer is up-stream on the boiler. And the A7 tank does not have a mixer.
So, the tank temperature is what we see at the kitchen sink. Right now it's 122F.
We both like it right there. Our dishwasher has temp-boost sani-wash mode.
So, it doesn't need really hot water. Plus, lower temps mean less kWh used.

If you're cooling the garage, down to 70 to 80F, the A7 will work fine.
And will help cool the garage. (As it pumps room heat into the tank).

If you aren't cooling, and it gets hot (80+) in the garage, the A7 will use less power,
cool down the garage a little (7k BTUh) if you start using hot water (a shower etc).

In the winter, if you are heating the garage, some of that heat will be captured by the A7 and pumped into the tank.
If the room temp is 70F or higher, the A7 power use won't be very high.
Theoretically, :rolleyes: If you are keeping the garage at 70F with 1,000 BTUh of heat,
while the A7 is running, you will need to add 7,000 BTUh to that 1,000 BTUh,
and run your room heater at 8,000 BTUh for about 30 minutes (per shower).


If it's cold, in the garage, the A7 will use more power. More hotwater use=more kWhs.

http://media.treehugger.com/assets/i...effiencyv2.jpg

X,
Link to the source of A7 bar graph of COP vs. Amb Temp. Please. It’s not in the install manual.
Thx, Bernie