Most 12V LED strips have built in current limiting.

It's not clear how you are current-limiting the power to your LED light(s).

-AC

I'm assuming these are automotive 12v strips that are usually used for under-dash effects and probably just have a resistor in series with the LED strip to make the current appropriate for the standard 13-14ish volts that cars run off of. Most of the ebay auctions in that price range with the description he gave are advertising these for automotive use. Curious what a kill-a-watt says for their usage since a post I was looking at said light output wattage as opposed to the actual input wattage. If it isn't PWM it could be burning a fair bit through the resistor.

Single Color Strip Lighting | Elemental LED Academy
What is the difference between 3528 LEDs and 5050 LEDs |SMD 5050 SMD 3528

The 5050 led strips I bought have three emitters in each chip. Three chips are wired in series with a 150 ohm resistor for each leg of 3 emitters. The 3 series strings are tied together at each end. Since each white led drops around 3.3 volts, the resistors drop whatever is left past about 10 volts. To me, the simplicity of a chip resistor is well worth the fraction of power lost vs running some kind of current controller that has a bad reputation of sensitive and unreliable operation. These things are not complex, so they are much less likely to break than something much like a computer power supply.

http://i02.i.aliimg.com/img/pb/575/4...temp1_3522.jpg

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...psn20afuzi.jpg

Another cool thing about these strips is that you can cut them to length and use the individual bits to install them however you want to. The strips I bought were housed in a little extrusion for wall washing or bar lighting:

http://image.dhgate.com/albu_333512755_00/1.0x0.jpg

I just slid the strips out of their shell to mount them flat.

I am using LED lights and I m happy
 

I have been using LED lights for the last two months and I am happy with it. Yes, they are expensive as compared to the normal CFL's. But, they provide me sufficient light. I have installed both the LED tube lights as well as the LED bulbs. The LED lights provide some amount of bluish color in the light, but not completely blue. The LED tube lights provide the same amount of light as the normal tubelight, but are more efficient than normal tablets. I am using two LED bulbs one for my bathroom and one in my garage, it provides ample amount of light.

LED Flood light replacing Metal Halide
 

As AC Hacker coined the phrase "I'm on a Jihad" to reduce my electrical consumption.

The existing Flood lights are 175 watt metal Halide. They will be replaced with 25 watt LEDs. These are some Chinese LEDs that look pretty nice How ever the bracket that was supplied would in all likelihood not tolerate the Canadian winter wind. I'd made a more substantial aluminum bracket.

Time is of the essence here as winter is going to be freezing the ground and my installation will require a little digging and a little bit of concrete to anchor the metal post.

Being close to Christmas my Mrs. is in decoration mode and outside embellishment of lights is in the works. It usually involves a number of extension cords so the LED flood light mount will also sport a receptacle that will reduce the number of cords. The flood light circuit is also monitored with a timer so this will be really handy.

Randen

http://ecorenovator.org/forum/attach...s-sam_3104-jpg

http://ecorenovator.org/forum/attach...s-sam_3105-jpg

http://ecorenovator.org/forum/attach...s-sam_3106-jpg

Too much time on your hands. Get that glycol in the loops, haha

My LED lighting indoors has been working great. We have not had one LED blub fail in over a year.
I only have two outdoor LED flood lights so far. Those are in sheltered fixtures.
The LED weatherproofing didn't hold up..

On the plus side, the lights don't come on a lot, so the power usage isn't too high.

I'm pretty sure that bracket will hold haha. :)