Septic tank Repair. Just a shi*** job.
 

My tank was not flowing we have had crazy rain I called the Septic pumper guys and they said it would be a week before they could get to me. The suggested that I uncover it and see if I could see any issues.
I did and it was plugged from the house to the tank very easy fix. But the out let was eroded away so I called the Septic guy he said call a Plummer to get it fixed. I found a video on you tube on how to fix it not fun but not a really hard job.
DIY septic tank baffle repair - YouTube
I bought Polylok PL-68 Effluent Filter $51
Polylok Extend and Lok™ $22
With shipping $81.25 not bad.
Septic Tank Effluent Filters, PL-122 Effluent Filter, PL-68 Effluent Filter, Sim/Tech Bristle Filters
I still needed a 4” coupler and a very short piece 4” pipe.
We are back in business. I never had to repair a septic tank before but it is now done.
Maybe this will help someone else.

As you can see in the picture you don't want the solids to go out to the drain field.


I know this is not a pleasant thing to look at or talk about but $90 is a lot better than $300-$400 for a repair. Or if you don’t do the repair you have to replace your drain field at some point.

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Both my boys helped me with this job. I think they learned something and they helped me to cover it back up.

Ahh.. The joys of a home owner..

Mighta been a nasty deed but it had positive. Good find!

Believe it or not I am glad it happened otherwise I would not found that outlet issue. Then the drain field would be a lot worse off. It is always something.

In Ontario discharge filters are now a code requirement on all new installs, and are required almost every time a tank is repaired. New tanks have a 6"PVC riser molded into the lid directly above the filter, complete with a removable cap, so that the filter element can be easily removed for cleaning. This should be done at least annually, the element can be pulled up and out with a sturdy wire hook, then rinsed off with the garden hose.
I work for a large contractor, we're licensed septic installers and repair. There's not too much I haven't seen. I can't stress enough to people how important it is to watch what goes into your system. Try to avoid antibacterial products such as dish soap, hand soap, and laundry products. Keep grease to a minimum. Waste food products should be diverted to composting. And keep an eye on the kids- an amazing number of toys get flushed and plug up the works.
Finally, despite your best efforts, a certain amount of sediment will accumulate in both chambers of your tank, and every two or three years you should have the tank pumped. A large specially equipped truck will vacuum out the contents of the tank and haul it away. This is a great time to inspect your tank, and if you're queasy about it, be sure to be there when the pump truck is there- the operator would be happy to explain to you what he sees. I usually recommend to people that pump out during the summer. It's usually less expensive as they can dispose of the effluent in licensed ponds or fields, and it gives the tank time to refill and re-establish it's bacterial population before winter sets in. A full healthy tank won't freeze.

Great info thanks for posting. My tank top is cement and just has a square cement cover that drops flush with the tank. Can you add a riser to this if so how do you get it to seal?

Septic tank supplier can supply several types of "kits" to convert your square plug to an easy access inspection setup. There are couple of variables, how much soil is on the tank, and what does the local inspector approve. The supplier should be able to suggest the right material.
We often use a precast concrete riser with a precast lid. The riser resembles a concrete well tile, and are usually available in heights with 6" increments. I usually set the riser with "PL Premium", and fabricate a cove around the joint between the riser and tank with quickset mortar. It can be further protected with some brushed on asphalt foundation sealer. The original plug can be discarded at this point.
Another method is to install precast "picture frames" - 24" square precast risers 2" thick. They have a bevelled inner and outer edge, and actually do resemble picture frames. Again, we glue them in place, ad place a mortar cove around them to deflect water. They can be stacked to bring the assembly up to grade, and are capped with a 24" square reinforced patio stone.
In my last post, when I spoke about watching what goes into your system I forgot to mention a couple of things. Feminine hygiene products and disposable diapers may seem obvious, but still seem to find their way in. A new product, personal wipes, may be a problem. They are not easily broken down by contact with water, and I fully expect to see them this year sooner or later. Be sure to let your houseguests know the rules.

I took your recommendation and installed a riser. I had Tapcons left over from the Mini split install.

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If I ever have to uncover the second opening I will probably add a second cover.
You can run over this cover whit a mower it will hold the weight. I will keep my tractor off it. :)

Guys - be aware that advice in Canada on septic systems is a LOT different from systems that are in much warmer ground (more southerly)

Specifically, here in Oklahoma, we do not need to pump out the tank every few years. Well, if you put a lot of grease, toys, diapers and other stuff in then maybe - but normal operations of a functioning tank in the south are a LOT different from up north.

The key is the warm soil outside the tank that allows appropriate decomposition.

The other advice on risers, etc is spot on. The chemical NOT mentioned, but needs to be is sodium hypochlorite - aka laundry bleach. If you use this in moderation (a few tablespoons per laundry load) you will not kill the bacteria in the septic tank (north, south, east or west), but cupfuls of bleach can a tank bacteria killer - even in the south . . .

The key is to have a thriving population of bacteria that degrade the waste.

I have lived in the "great white north" for 25 years and now in Oklahoma for 30 years and have endured the "joys" of septic tank maintenance in both places. Here in the south, is a LOT easier as the beneficial bacteria thrive in the warm soils (for both tank and lateral lines).


Steve

Thanks guys. I needed all that info. As a southerner who grew up attached to a sewer line, I never learned the joys (and pitfalls) of septic life. Now that I have property in the great white north (45.8°N) with a septic system, I'm sure I'll need all that info.

herlichka is spot on!
I pump septic tanks for a living, if homeowners had this info and were willing to do the maintenance there would be a lot less replacements/repairs needed.
Steve is also right, health department here in MS recommends 1,000 gallon tanks be pumped every 3-5 years with 4 people living in the house.

I will add to this info though. CHECK YOUR TOILET PAPER. Take a mason jar and fill it with water and 10 sheets of your paper, then wait 15 minutes, if the paper does not completely break apart with a gentle rolling of the jar in your hands, then get a different paper. Toilet paper floats when it comes into the septic, if it takes to long to break down it will make a 3-8 inch (I've seen up to 3 feet) floating mass that will clog your inlet lines and stop bacteria grow in its tracks.

Also check your toilets for leaks. You can do a simple dye test (check youtube) once every 6 MONTHS on ALL your toilets. Toilets leaks are the cause of at least 60% of the calls I do. It hydraulically overloads the field/leach lines, (sand pit/ raised mound, dip system) and cause a high water level in the tank. This can cause the floating layer to float in front of the inlet line and cause a blockage. Or can cause enough pressure to just back up in the house.

pinballlooking, look for a Jetter in your area. They can take high pressure water to flush your field lines. This will get most of whatever floated into your pipe out and possible keep you from having some serious problems down the road. This cost about $300 in my area vs $2,000 for field line repair.
Also the risers you are looking at are great, but very expensive. Around here we install 24" black HPDE culvert with a rubber/tar sealed to the tank and a special lid that goes on top. We charge $150 INSTALLED, so it will be better and cheaper.
There are also chemicals that help break down solids in your field lines. That is my only concern, that you just don't know how long that outlet has been like that and how much solids have gone into your lines.

Best of luck!