I agree with Piwoslaw that insulating the roof from the second floor would be a good thing to do. The sun will heat your metal roof which then radiates an enormous amount of heat onto your gypsumboard ceiling.

Do you have access to your 'attic', can you get us a picture?

A fairly easy and cheap way to isolate would be to cover the top of the ceiling with EPS plates. Just put them on the top of the ceiling and cover the entire atticfloor. You can add another layer later. This will isolate your second floor from the hot air in the attic.
Right on top of that you can lay the insulationfoam you found, with the aluminium to the top. That way the aluminium radiates heat away from the floor.

The first thing I'd do though is get those foam/aluminium rolls and hang them underneath the metal roof with the aluminium facing upwards.

How closed is your attic? Is it windy in there during a hurricane?

Anyone ever tried putting ground loops down into the ground like through a basement floor?

The attic is sealed, I haven't built a trap door yet but I will have to so I can install the insulation you guys mentioned.

At this very moment (noontime here) the gypsum ceiling is hot and it radiates to almost 2 feet below it..

Here are some pics I took of the roof extension over the kitchen. the primary roof is constructed the same way using the same materials.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps2982bc4c.jpg

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps51e74eb2.jpg

My neighbors have the same construction done on theirs too..here's apic of their roofs.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps0ade149c.jpg

Here's a top view of the kitchen roof..the bolts need repainting/replacement..the roof itself needs to be painted white...

and the translucent roof sheet needs to be replaced..it's way past its age..

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psa23482bf.jpg

Thanks for the tips, now all I have to do is build a trapdoor and measure the entire roof so I can estimate how many rolls are needed to insulate the roof...and repair any holes/leaks in the flashing.

The attic is not that airtight, there used to have brown rats living up there (from the rice fields nearby) until I finally got rid of them. It is very windy outside the house but I do not feel that much draft inside except for the windows...I could hear whistling from them during typhoon winds.

@Christ
I've asked around and no one has ever done it here nor does any local contractor have the experience yet. I believe those located nearer to the metropolis would have better or actual experience in building those.

I only ask because 1 basements are typically a cooler space and 2 it might work where ou don't have enough of a space outdoors to install such a system, especially where most of the basement/crawl area is unused.

I duno what ground rights are like there... some places you're only 'titled' just several feet below ground and the locality retains the rights of the remainder of depth.

Thanks to you I had a good laugh buddy. I went to the city hall, looked for the guys in charge of it and also the city engineers office and asked about ground rights..

the reply was (translated) "ground rights? you have the right to do whatever you want to parcels of land you legitimately own. Heck, you can even dig for Yama****as treasure if you want to"

So now that gives me an idea...:thumbup: Thanks!

^^ I'd get that in writing from them before investing in a shovel.

If you have a lot of moisture in your roof will the insulation attract mould?
This happens to houses in Thailand

Also, try vented window coverings, like shutters, either on the inside or out, and if you have double hung widows, open the windows down low on the windward side of the house, and open them up high on the leeward side of the house (the sides the wind is coming from and leaving to respectively). This is an old trick from old houses in the South and Southwest parts of the USA.

Yes, insulate under your roof, but I have seen major impacts by just painting the roof 'white' with elastomeric roof paint. And every year or two, just spray the roof with chlorine bleach and let it dry. That will help reduce the mold and mildew that happens when the roof is exposed and 'browns' for a long time.

If you could, a 'second roof' with air space between the top and lower roofs with ventilation between helps. ... I have seen people do that with sheds and barns to reduce the heat load in the summer. This works well especially where there is no summer shade or deciduous trees around. ... I have thought that mounting solar panels a few inches above the roof would help on roof heat load too, but that has it's own challenges as well ( using the micro-inverters to grid tie seems to be a good solution in well served areas ).

If you paint the roof, get some of the microscopic glass beads to spread on the wet paint of the roof. They tend to help reflect heat load (and in the moonlight, your roof can appear to 'glow' with reflecting the moon light).

On window treatments, the shutters on the inside can help keep 'hot light' out, and still let the breeze through. If you have them on the outside they might be more effective if your area will allow it.

Just a few thoughts.

"If you paint the roof, get some of the microscopic glass beads to spread on the wet paint of the roof. They tend to help reflect heat load (and in the moonlight, your roof can appear to 'glow' with reflecting the moon light)."

Servant74, the beads never occurred to me. That's a great idea. They are also available as 'micro spheres' through several aircraft supply houses for lightning up fiberglass resin. The cost is reasonable.

A second inside roof to provide shade and a breeze through the void is the easiest way. Be sure not to forget to vent the peak of the roof.

Did you end up doing anything to reduce your heat gain?