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-   -   Alaskan Home Energy Upgrade Project (https://ecorenovator.org/forum/showthread.php?t=3966)

NiHaoMike 10-31-14 11:52 PM

Maybe also look into some altcoin mining rigs if you're OK using experimental technology.

Erich_870 11-01-14 02:49 AM

So the authorized improvements break down into several categories:

1. Heater replacement and controls
1.1 Install programmable thermostat
1.2 Replace primary heating system with 84% AFUE
2. Insulation
2.1 Add R-14 ridged foam at rim joist above grade
2.2 Add R-3.5 insulating blanket on garage door
2.3 Add R-38 fiberglass batts to vaulted ceiling attic
2.4 Add R-40 ridged foam on foundation walls.
2.5 Add R-40 ridged foam around inside perimeter of foundation footing (under vapor barrier)
2.6 Add R-33 blown in insulation above laundry room.
2.7 Add R-30 batts above garage
2.8 Replace back door with R-2.8 door.
2.9 Replace front door with U-0.16 fiberglass door.
3. Air Tightening (and mechanical ventilation)
3.1 Air Seal to reduce air leakage by 500 CFM at 50 Pascals
3.2 Install mechanical ventilation in bathrooms

Based on the point spread it looks like the max reimbursement I can get is $8500. Not too bad, but it takes the expensive heating system options off the table. I can't float paying most of a new $7500 propane fire place out of pocket.

I have a couple questions right off the bat. What do you guys think of items 2.4 & 2.5? Placing R-40 on the foundation walls and along the floor of the crawlspace means that I'll need 8" of pink foam board. That seems crazy to me. I see new construction all over town only using 4" (2" inside, 2" outside).

Also, in item 2.9, what is a U-0.16 fiberglass door? I get the R-2.8 right above it. I guess I need to do some more research into doors.

Do you guys see anything else that looks strange?

On the replacement of my primary heating source, I talked with the program administrator about finding a heater that can meet 84% AFUE and he said that I can install a less efficient one, I just won't get all the points. I have to contact my rater and have him run the numbers for the lower efficiency and get me the new points. I can't loose too many or it will drop me out of the $8500 level.

Erich

Erich_870 11-01-14 08:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NiHaoMike (Post 41397)
Maybe also look into some altcoin mining rigs if you're OK using experimental technology.

I don't have a clue what that means.

Erich

ecomodded 11-02-14 12:11 AM

Erich $7,500 for the Gas fireplace is frighting.

Look into mini split heat pumps , price some units and the energy costs for You to run them. I think they are the most cost effective systems going. Don't let them sell you on the $ Big units with Duct work $ you don't need them , most people don't but they love to sell them to anyone.

Erich_870 11-02-14 05:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ecomodded (Post 41442)
Erich $7,500 for the Gas fireplace is frighting.

Look into mini split heat pumps , price some units and the energy costs for You to run them. I think they are the most cost effective systems going. Don't let them sell you on the $ Big units with Duct work $ you don't need them , most people don't but they love to sell them to anyone.

I agree. I really like the high efficiency, 92.6%, but the cost is too much. I called the manufacturer to see if they made something in the 80-84% range and the customer service gal couldn't find one...

As for the mini split, they look like great systems but I won't get any credit for it since it's a different form of heating. The inspector listed it as an option, but I get no points for it.

By completing at least 15.6 points I can be reimbursed up to $8500, so each point is worth $545.

Erich

Erich_870 11-17-14 12:34 PM

A couple of updates.

I got a hold of my energy rater and got a couple of things clarified and worked out:

1.2 Replace primary heating system with 84% AFUE.

He ran the numbers again and going with a newer model of my Rinnai heater will get me 8.8pts (instead of the 9.1). I'm really happy about this because the points are still high, the swap will be easy and the new model has time settings in the thermostat so we can reduce the temperature at night.

2.4 Add R-40 ridged foam on foundation walls.
2.5 Add R-40 ridged foam around inside perimeter of foundation footing (under vapor barrier)

He was unaware of the R-40 requirement in the report. He said the program just spits out the number. He said I only need to go R-20, so that's a huge savings in insulation costs.

When I divide the rebate premium into the number of points I get $500 per point. With this the insulation still doesn't break even, but that's not taking into account the long term energy savings, but I'd like to make it as inexpensive as I can from the beginning. Now I'm shopping around for the best price on foam board.

Erich

theoldwizard1 11-17-14 10:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Erich_870 (Post 41776)
2.4 Add R-40 ridged foam on foundation walls.
2.5 Add R-40 ridged foam around inside perimeter of foundation footing

That is 6" of polyisocyanurate according to my chart !

Erich_870 11-17-14 11:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theoldwizard1 (Post 41788)
That is 6" of polyisocyanurate according to my chart !

It's 8" of the pink foam board, which seemed crazy to me!

I can handle 4".

Erich

creeky 11-18-14 05:26 PM

I would just point out. The pink stuff is xps insulation. According to recent testing it actually improves in R value as it gets cold. Polyiso. Which has the highest R value (6.5/"). Does not perform as well (r value decreases) in very cold temperatures. Something to watch for.

I like xps on the outside layer and polyiso as you move towards the warm part of the home. This gives you the best of both worlds. So for your 4" go 2 (r10) xps and 2 polyiso (r13). Now you have r23.

To save money you could try calling roofing/construction contractors. They often sell off end of job overs, demolition remains and culled insulation. Prices can be good.

I think it's only xps in contact with the ground. tho, little late for installing ground contact insulation this year.

Erich_870 11-18-14 06:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by creeky (Post 41803)
I would just point out. The pink stuff is xps insulation. According to recent testing it actually improves in R value as it gets cold. Polyiso. Which has the highest R value (6.5/"). Does not perform as well (r value decreases) in very cold temperatures. Something to watch for.

I like xps on the outside layer and polyiso as you move towards the warm part of the home. This gives you the best of both worlds. So for your 4" go 2 (r10) xps and 2 polyiso (r13). Now you have r23.

To save money you could try calling roofing/construction contractors. They often sell off end of job overs, demolition remains and culled insulation. Prices can be good.

I think it's only xps in contact with the ground. tho, little late for installing ground contact insulation this year.

Great advice!

I'll be working on the inside of my crawlspace. Opening up the outside perimeter isn't feasible for most of my house due to things like porches, asphalt and concrete walks, ect.

Thanks,

Erich


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