I plugged in my kill a watt to the fridge last night to start logging pre-mod energy usage. In the 10.5 hours since plugging it in (overnight), it used .5 kWh. So, the estimated daily usage at this point is ~1.14 kWh. However, that really isn't a good number since I don't think we opened it many times after adding the meter. Last time I did this I saw pretty large swings in energy usage. However, after 925 hours of logging (38.5 days), I ended up with 1.37 kWh/day. We'll see how things compare after a week or two.

I measured my fridge run times with the door left closed so i could have consistency with my numbers unadulterated by door openings.
Which was hard to do, what i did was took out enough cream for coffee, milk for cereal and butter for the day to keep me out of the fridge as much as possible.

I learned a good habit there, i have been taken out my cream, milk and butter in the morning since.
It has been working great as i put the milk on hot cereal the cream in hot coffee and the butter is now spreadable.
By doing those changes i saved the fridge door from opening 7-10 times or possible twice that amount 14-20 times , as i normally open the fridge grab the cream shut the door use the cream , open the door and put it back.

Hypermiling my fridge haha :)

Based on Doax's figures the cost for the electrical energy per year is $85.00 to run the fridge. If I was to modify the fridge and get a 50% reduction I think I would be hard pressed to recoup my costs in ten years. But still it kinda a neat project.

Maybe I should quantify my effort. Remove compressor to other location like a shelf or cabinet in the garage and a condensor outside. A little more insulation for the fridge.

Randen

For the record, my fridge is probably about 5 years old. Its supposed to be fairly efficient according to the energy star rating (I'll have to dig that up), and I also run the fridge and freezer at a higher temp than most (40F fridge, 5F freezer). It also sits in the coolest room in the house. So, I have a few things going for me there. I'm sure there are more efficient refrigerators out there, but I'd probably say on average most use more power. I'd highly suggest picking up a kill a watt or other point of use monitor and see what yours uses.

Radon if your fridge saved $45 a year in ten years it would save you $450, not tooo pressed to recoup the cost.
If looked at strictly from a investment point of view it is a good investment, Keeping the cost down is paramount for a reasonably fast pay back, Finding supplies at a cut rate, free or slightly used prices is the way to go. Re- building supply stores craig's list or the like.
My investment is going to arrive back in my pocket fast, after that it will be making me money every year.
I payed $15 for $200 worth of flooring insulation and $30 for 2 cans of 3M spray glue.
$45 total costs pay back time a year or so then money in my pocket.

Fridge Rear Vent on & PCM's in
 

I have finally got around to finishing the refrigerator's rear vent from the compressor area extending out 6 inches to go through the wall.
I replaced the thin compressor condenser cover on the back of the fridge with a piece of plywood with the vent attached, the inside of it is covered with flooring insulation. I'll post pic's once i put the fridge back in place.

I took the PCM plunge and loaded my lower fridge up with water jugs.
And i do mean loaded, to the tune of 10 gallons of water in 2L juice jugs, 2L pop bottles and 1/2 doz. smaller 700 ml pop plastic bottles for filling some of the larger voids.
At first i had the crispers full of water jugs when i realized the air flow was non existent in there so i removed them and stacked the squarish 2L juice jugs into the bottom, filling up to the glass shelf that normally is over the crisper.
On top of that glass shelf i loaded it up with 2L pop bottles then lowered a shelf over it.

I have two shelves left, each one has enough height for milk juice etc.
I am going to insulate the lower inside door as it is hardly ever used and not needed, since its in a key heat loss position i am filling the void.

I put a piece of blue vapor barrier under the juice jugs on the bottom of the fridge, and put it up under the glass shelves attachment points to hold it in place, keeping the cold air inside the fridge when the door is opened.
It goes from the bottom of the fridge to the bottom of the top shelf and sags to allow access to the 2nd shelf I am pleased with it :)
The fridge has been running for 3 hours, charging the water containers and cooling the fridge after emptying it and washing it down.
I suspect the initial expense of cooling the water bottles will be easily absorbed by the fridges increased performance .

The Grand Finale
 

It will be a few days before i know what the improvements made are by adding the PCM's /water jugs.
It looks promising so far but it has only been 24 hrs.

Some photos of the vent work and the interior cold seal.

Very interesting. I can't wait to see how it turns out. I've talked to a few people who would like a 'curtain' or something inside the fridge doors to hold the cold in while they look for what they need. This is the first implementation I've seen that come close to that.

Years ago I remember some grocery stores having curtains of plastic strips about 4" wide that you reached through to grab your milk and other things. I haven't seen one in years. I'm not sure if they figured out how to keep the cold in the fridges without them or if they decided the energy didn't matter and they would rather just have the cleaner look of no curtains/door at all.

I noticed the fridge is much quieter, which makes it harder to notice when it turns on or off, which in turn makes it harder to notice when it starts up to begin timing it.

The house temperature is 19-20 c , 67-68 F

Off durations 2 hrs , 2h 30m , 2h 13m , 2h 34m

On durations 26 m , 30m , 25m, 27m

I have more measurements to add:

Off: 2 hr 40 m , 2 hr 6 m , 2 hr 30 m , 1 hr 47 m , 2 hr 27 m , 1 hr 48 m , 2 h .

On: 25 m , 25 m , 31 m , 25 m , 27 m , 26 m , 26 m

I forgot to mention that i blocked off the exhaust behind the compressor so all warm air is exhausted out the rear vent, the kick panel is now just for the intake.