The actual draw is probably a lot less than that. I have an Asus router that is labeled 1A but actual draw is more like 0.4A. You can also look into getting one of those travel routers (like the WR703N) which have very low power usage.

With a grid tie solar setup, you can add a connector to directly tap power from the panels when needed. It would be easiest if the system voltage range is between 150-380V, as you can use a hacked PC PSU (to try to regulate the input as well as the output) as a DC/DC converter.

I don't go quite that far ! I just turn off the fuel while it is still running and let it run until it stops.

Funny you mention that, I have a WR703N I keep in my travel bag, running DD-WRT. :thumbup: The challenge running it off-grid is that it wants 5V.

You're right about the current draw, I just checked my WRT-54G at 0.44A. The current draw looked marginal for my 20W panel on a 17Ah battery with some shading where my 20W panel lives on my lower story roof.

As for tapping into my big PV panels before the inverter, my grid-tie is microinverter based, so I'm running 24-30V DC up on the second floor roof. I could use a PV tap to charge 24V batteries, but I already have two 12V Morningstar charge controllers and a 50W panel, in addition to the 20W panel.


I used to do that with the riding lawn mower, but it still tended to gum up on today's modern, lousy gasoline blends. I just find it's easier to drop the float bowl and dry out the last dribble of fuel from the generator rather than unclog the jet when I wish the generator would just start and run.

I have a 7kw I rebuilt it to hold 18 gallons of fuel and put it on an off road cart that can go over rough ground, handle the additional weight of the fuel and be cargo strapped to a trailer under high tension. Its more intended to provide power for remote job site.
It will run the plasma cutter (with a gasoline powered air compressor), mig welder, stick welder at partial power or an air compressor and other tools.
Then I found an L14-30 cord at the scrap yard. I lopped off the female end and installed it into my breaker panel on a 30 amp breaker. To disconnect from the power grid I pull my meter and connect and crank the generator then flip the breaker on.

They make a device called an interlock (some panel manufacturers sell them also). It installs on the breaker panel face plate. It will not allow you to turn on the feed from your generator until the main is turned off. Typically under $100 and saves you from having to pull the meter.

Having a Propane fireplace as I do with 100# tanks will keep you warm threw the power lapse, as would a wood stove etc.

Also

A small even a 2 battery Solar bank a person would have lights radio and a charger station for various battery powered items , flashlights phones etc.

Pulling the meter will take no more than 30 seconds and its cost is free.
That is 30 seconds with the power companies stupid little lock on it. Yes I know what a grid interlock is and precisely how they work, that is why I don't need one. They are idiot proofing for all the non-electricians out there with a backup home power supply.

Here is my generator.
I bought it for $100, Aside from a dead battery it would start and run fine but not put out any power.
So I put ran multimeter leads line to line to do a volt check and got 7 volts. I know that that means no excitation. When you have no excitation you get the same reading for 7kw generators as well as 72kw 3 phase 400hz generators.
So I knew the voltage regulator was toast, brushes were bad or the armature was bad. I figured the most likely cause was bad brushes or bad Vreg.
Once I pulled the dust cover off the back of the generator it was clear right away the brushes were bad. Bought 2 brush sets off ebay for $14, installed one problem solved.

The way the original battery was mounted was a joke.
I have multiple power inverters too. Since that 7kw generator is electric start there is an excuse to have a battery one there. So I equipped with a group 31 AGM battery and 1000 watt pure sine inverter.
Other mods I did was put a more robust useable breaker panel on there, with plugs I actually use (NEMA 10-50 and L14-30).
Then I added an additional 5 gallon generator fuel tank I picked up for free.
There is a spot on the frame to cargo strap another 5 gallon gas can on there for storage or transport too (not pictured).
Its got multiple hoisting and tie down or security points.

I'm fortunate that "heat" is never a problem when the power goes out around here. It's usually 92°F with a feels like of 102°F during the day, and gets down to a low of 82°-84°F at night with humidity in the 70-95% range.

Now that I have the Norcold 40qt and 60qt compressor driven 12v/120v coolers, I've got some options for keeping things cold without running the generator quite so much.

If it looks like it might be awhile, there's always the 2kW inverter I picked up off craigslist for free, or the collection of smaller ones I have lying around.

The cell phones can recharge off the 20W PV setup.

Based on the measurements from my TED 1001, I could technically run my central air off the 5,500W generator, but finding ~10 gallons of gas each day gets to be challenging and expensive.

Not everyone here is an electrician and most people think that they would be "in big trouble" with the POCO for cutting the seal. :rolleyes:

Actually, pulling the meter is a good "visual" for a linesman to know he is not going to be zapped by the the house with light because someone is using a "suicide cord" !