Senville SENA/24HF/Z 2 ton split
 

It came in and the out door unit is freaking huge. Box is nearly 150lb, the unit inside is 135lb.
Use a dolly to move it, not because of the mass but the large volume it takes up.
Step one, prepare a concrete pad by digging a hole making forms and pounding some steel into the ground.

Do not attempt install on your own. I have had the universal refrigeration certification since 2002.

I have not been able to work on it a whole lot.
I have all the outside electrical done. It's got a local disconnect 15 amp breaker and a receptacle not tied to the local disconnect.
I only poured about 280lb of concrete.
The liquid line is 3/8'' and the vapor return is 5/8''.

Wow, that's like 2 cubic feet of concrete.

I got it going but my 5/8 line was leaking where I had to extend it and where it connects to the indoor unit.
It took something like 75 to 100ft/lb to get it to seat. And stop leaking. The factory tube tube kit seated to the out door unit pretty easy.

Post some pictures. How is it working?

So far it's working great. I'm thinking I may have gone a little overboard putting a 2 ton in the living room kitchen are it's been real cool the last few days since it's been ready. This weekend should be nice and warm.
Wife likes it much better than the 10,000btu portable non window unit.
Dogs are not too sure what to think of it because it's a big thing just hanging off the wall up high.

Just like last time I have the split plugged into my welding extension cord.
One of my welding extension cords has a 240v energy meter added to it.
When I turned the split off I just happened to notice it was drawing and amp. Yes while it was off.
So I figured that's odd I should verify with a note meter so I put my fluke235 amp clamp on it.
Same thing.
It's drawing an amp at a really odd power factor. Something like a 0.04pf. Which means there is probably a capacitor on there.
Really low power factor readings like that can indicate a leading power factor.
I don't know if the kwh billing meter will read that but I'm assuming it does.
So I will be disconnecting power when not in use, not just turning it off.

If you are going to install anything with 5/8 lines I highly recommend you use two 15 inch adjust wrenches. Or at least a 15 and a 12. Two 12s would work if the connections are very easy to access.
I had to add some R-410a yesterday because it was getting low because of a very slow leak.

The 1/4 and 3/8 lines on my smaller split never leaked, it's these darn 5/8 lines.

My wife was cooking some stuff on the stove today and the house didn't heat up at all like it used to.
The extra capacity is nice.
You can size for cooking appliances but most people dont unless it's a commercial install.

My wife says the power bill is down $40 to $50 per month and the house is too cold some times.
As opposed to it being almost too warm part of the day.
When it's 104°F out side you wouldn't know it now.
I'm sure the insulation I put up in the ceiling helped too.