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Old 02-03-18, 10:58 PM   #51
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The short block is together. It went well except I should have moved the block in front of the car before I put the crankshaft in. Not a real big deal it is there now.
Everything plastic gauged out good.







Installing the head is up next.

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Old 02-03-18, 11:09 PM   #52
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Wow! That's all I can say. As I guy who once took all day to adjust the valve clearances on a Honda CRV,
I am very impressed by the pictures and the obvious engine rebuilding skills we are witnessing.

Amazed!
Rich
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Old 02-04-18, 03:37 PM   #53
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Thanks. This is not my first rebuild mostly v8 a couple 4 cylinders.
The head is torqued down. I cleaned both sides mating surfaces with acetone couple times.
Used the documented torque procedure. This was the first time using torque angle Gauge it was not too hard.
I used a two-foot breaker bar that helped make it easy.

This car has an interesting torque procedure.



DOHC head torqueing procedure
Initial dry bolt torque in sequence to 48ft-lb following the torqueing pattern in stages to 20ft-lb, 30ft-lb, and final 48ft-lb. This establishes the proper clamp load on the gasket.
This is followed by removal in about 1/4 turn in sequence until loose.
Bolts washers, threads and bolt heads are oiled with clean engine oil and reinstalled finger tight.
Torqued in sequence to 22 ft-lb then 37ft-lb and then additional 90-degree turn.
The 90 degrees is important so do not guess at the 90 degrees. You can eyeball it and use a 1/2 drive breaker bar and make the 90 degrees turn in a single smooth motion.
If this is not followed the new gasket will end up leaking.
Torquing sequence
intake side
8-4-1-5-9
7-3-2-6-10
exhaust side

Timing chain set installed. One more step done.
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Last edited by pinballlooking; 02-05-18 at 07:48 PM..
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Old 02-07-18, 08:55 AM   #54
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Very nice work! Loving all the pics.
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Old 02-19-18, 08:51 AM   #55
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Oil pan baffle and pick is installed. Oil pan is installed.
Starter is on and the exhaust manifold is on.




One of my exhaust studs manifold to exhaust pipe was bad. I found a Dorman Exhaust Manifold Mount Kit 03411 at auto zone for $8. This has 10 studs and nuts. That was enough to replace the three studs and all the exhaust manifold studs great deal.



It is starting to look like a motor.
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Last edited by pinballlooking; 02-19-18 at 12:18 PM..
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Old 02-19-18, 10:13 AM   #56
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Does that coolant hose connection have a nice smooth surface for the hose & clamp?

Yeah, it's starting to look like a very nice motor.!. Gonna use some Mobile '1' or cheap break-in oil?
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Old 02-19-18, 12:15 PM   #57
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I have to sand the bottom coolant connection.

I will use Pennzoil 5-30 to start it.
After it opens the thermostat twice then I will switch it to synthetic blend oil.
Then around 500 miles or no oil usage I will switch it to Mobile one oil.
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Old 02-19-18, 01:19 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pinballlooking View Post
I have to sand the bottom coolant connection.

I will use Pennzoil 5-30 to start it.
After it opens the thermostat twice then I will switch it to synthetic blend oil.
Then around 500 miles or no oil usage I will switch it to Mobile one oil.

That (synthetic) sounds good, even to me, who never owned a car until I was 21 years old, and didn't own a single automotive tool.
My first repair was replacing the entire exhaust system (salt) on our new 1969 Ford Maverick. A really bad car.
IIRC, that thing was long! From manifold to the tail pipe, one piece! What a PITB!
That was back in my rear-wheel drive days.. It was too light for ice, and wouldn't start in wet weather..
My wife saw this ad, and picked out our first car.. I didn't even have a civilian drivers license!
https://youtu.be/WaAHjQTFnLw
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Old 02-20-18, 09:20 AM   #59
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Intake is on.
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Old 02-20-18, 10:00 PM   #60
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The injectors are DIY Clean. I used a computer power supply to supply 5 Volts and acetone under pressure using an oil pump can. This worked well. The fuel rail and injectors are installed.


When I cleaned up the valve cover I used a pressure washer and the one plastic baffles broke.
This caused lots of work.
I drilled all twelve holes in the valve cover then I used JB weld on all the screws. I don’t want them to ever come out. ( They were blind rivets from the factory )
Once I install the valve cover the motor is ready to go in. I am going to install a new transmission mount before putting the motor in.



The left side is the side I added the screws in.

My 96 came with a plastic valve cover the aluminum cover does not warp and will seal much better. The aluminum cover is on the other Saturn 91 - 95.

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