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Old 01-09-18, 07:53 PM   #41
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The reason I was replacing the timing cover was the other owner broke off the top right bolt ear.
They did not take out the middle bolt on the timing cover it is very hard to see if you don’t know it is there.
I used my band saw to cut the bolt ear off this nice shinny cover.
Today it warmed up so I broke out my welder and welded the cover bolt ear back on.

Top is welded (top bolt whole) bottom is before welding


We cleaned up the cam caps

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Old 01-10-18, 07:41 AM   #42
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Very nice. How did you go about welding the aluminum?
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Old 01-10-18, 08:22 AM   #43
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I used my Hobart Mig 210 with spool gun. I made my Big Green Egg stand out of aluminum not that long ago. So I have welded a fair amount aluminum. This was thicker aluminum so it was not that bad to do.
I first cut off a bolt ear off and test welded it back on. That went well so I did the real one.

This saves getting a new one and that saves time and money. When I bought the spool gun I was hoping I could use it for other projects.

The only bummer is the one I has to fix was the dirty one. So my son is back to cleaning this one up.
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Last edited by pinballlooking; 01-10-18 at 11:43 AM..
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Old 01-10-18, 11:05 AM   #44
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I bought this valve tool the other day. The Saturn valve are down in the head and hard to get to.
This tool should make it much simpler.
Lisle 36050 Valve Keeper Remover and Installer Kit



You don't have to use a hammer. You can just put pressure on it.
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Old 01-14-18, 12:02 PM   #45
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We ran the ridge reamer it had very little ridge.
The cylinders have been honed and the gasket surface was cleaned.
One step closer.



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Old 01-21-18, 10:06 PM   #46
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The valves are lapped. The head is cleaned up and the block is cleaned up.
I got the valve springs and retainers cleaned up and ready to install.

Block before and after


Head


ECTS was very bad I have a new one but this this is in bad shape.
(Coolant temp sensor in the head) this will make the car run very bad.
I have a new brass replacement.


Parts to rebuild the dog bone motor mounts.
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Last edited by pinballlooking; 01-23-18 at 10:07 AM..
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Old 01-23-18, 07:32 AM   #47
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Yeah that coolant sensor was probably causing grief. A couple of my Saturn's had that problem. The one would try to overheat at drive through lines and stoplights. Always idled high around 1200 rpm and the radiator fan never turned on. At the time, nobody had a solid bronze sensor for a Saturn. I ended up using one for a cavalier or Malibu or something and it did wonders. Never tore up again.

While you have the block apart, take measurements of all the important stuff. These engines have super tight tolerances like a Honda. Especially the cylinders. If they are not all in spec, the (weaker than usual) rings will never seat, and the engine will let you know.

Somebody's gonna love or hate those dogbone inserts. If the stock ones were worn out at all, the new ones will make the pedal response much more like a trans am or Corvette. The tip mount stops the rattling and the other three keep the engine tight.
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Old 01-23-18, 09:12 AM   #48
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I will be measuring cylinders soon and checking ring end gap.
Just bought a set T-Bore Hole Gauges.


New ECTS


I will plastic gauging all the rod and main bearing caps.
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Last edited by pinballlooking; 01-23-18 at 10:10 AM..
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Old 01-23-18, 05:12 PM   #49
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I once fixed a Saturn S series coolant temp sensor wiring. The wires going to the temp sensor just broke. The radiator fan was just running constantly.
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Old 01-28-18, 11:17 PM   #50
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The head now has valves/seals and lifters/cam shafts.


It is ready to go on the block. It is wrapped in plastic until then.
All the piston rods and main bearing caps are cleaned up.



One more step done.


I had two helpers today.


The T-Bore Hole Gauges are not good at all. Very hard to get a good reading form these.
I would not recommend getting theses.

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Last edited by pinballlooking; 02-01-18 at 09:05 AM..
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