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Old 01-13-10, 05:13 PM   #131 (permalink)
Journeyman EcoRenovator
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Woburn, MA
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Well, it looks like I've got plenty of time to clean up my line-set.

My replacement outdoor unit was all signed off to ship today, but they shipped out a big (40 units) order yesterday and ran dry..
So it looks like I'm going to burning oil for another 3 or 4 weeks. While the ship slowly moves across the sea..
I checked my dealer, they are also waiting for a new shipment. I guess the 24,000 BTU is a very popular model..


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Old 01-25-10, 11:31 PM   #132 (permalink)
Lurking Renovator
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 6
Default Help with my install

Sorry my post got deleted. I will try recreating what I had written.

Please do not consider this as any attempt to hijack this thread.

I need some guidance on how to evacuate and do the pressure test on our 3 unit LG 24K unit. Here are some pics





Also whats the endcap in the second picture ?

Your documentation has inspired us to start our own DIY mini-split.

Last edited by Chaaru; 01-26-10 at 12:25 AM.. Reason: Post got deleted
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Old 01-26-10, 12:17 AM   #133 (permalink)
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I'm not sure, because the Sanyo 3 room unit uses 6 valves, that look like the 2 valves used on my lineset.

Your outdoor unit must have a pair of 3-way splitters that are fed from the Gas & Liquid valves. It's like a pair of 3-way manifolds under the sheet metal.

Those endcaps things are there to keep air, dirt & etc out of the manifolds.

The two valves are operated by removing the large brass caps and using an Allen wrench to release the R-410A into the manifolds (and the attached indoor units).

So, my guess is to install, you would wire all the electrical lines and then:

1. Hook up all the line-sets and pressure test them (if you have the nitrogen)

2. Vacuum the system down under 20 microns..
(Using the service port under the small cap on the Gas valve. It looks like a tire fill pin-valve).

3. Insert the allen wrench into the gas valve, open it for 5 seconds,
close it, and check for leaks.

4. No leaks? Then open both valves with the allen wrench, all the way.

Edit:
Okay! It's back! Welcome aboard. It looks like you are going to have some fun.
I don't know the specs of your system, but if your line sets are long, you may
have to add some R-410A to the system.. Not an easy DIY job.. May need a pro.
Start your thread and post some URLs pointing to the manuals, so we can all read
up and see if we can help you with your LG ASHP project..

Last edited by Xringer; 01-26-10 at 12:40 AM..
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Old 01-26-10, 12:29 AM   #134 (permalink)
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Sorry, I accidentally deleted my post while editing (getting used to my mac )

I did recreate most of what I had asked. Thanks for your answers. I will plan on documenting my install as well.
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Old 03-06-10, 02:40 PM   #135 (permalink)
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I just wanted to say thank you for doing such a great job documenting your heat pump install. Have there been any updates on getting a replacement unit? Are you happy with the kWh meter you purchased?

Kenny
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Old 03-06-10, 03:42 PM   #136 (permalink)
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I have been told the new units are in country, and it takes a some time for US customs.
It's been about 15 days, since I was told "two to three weeks more"..
So, I'll likely hear something this coming week. (Or, I'll be calling Sanyo).

The kWh meter has been stored away, until the new unit is installed.
It's very valuable tool for trouble shooting the AC.
The MAX wattage alarm is really what alerted me to the problem.
I would not want to hook up the new unit, without power monitoring. I'm spoiled..
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