Eco-Garage - Page 2

TimJFowler · 03-06-09, 01:39 PM

Ben,

Can you post a few photos of the existing garage and surroundings, and a sketch of the site layout?

What I'm wondering is if you can prune the lower branches on the pine tree to allow the winter sunlight to shine on the garage. I definitely understand not wanting to cut down the tree, but maybe you can keep the tree and still get some light.

Curious,
Tim

Daox · 03-06-09, 02:14 PM

That is an excellent idea Tim!

Have you thought about moving your garage forward and maybe attaching it to your house?

dremd · 03-06-09, 08:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Daox

Traditionally, PEX tubing is used in hydronic heated floors. You simply lay out the tubing and poor the cement right over it. Very easy, and the tubing is flexible and should handle cracking.

The collectors could literally go anywhere in your yard, it doesn't have to be on the building.

I also agree with truckncycle, make it larger!

You NEED to insulate to slab fro the ground. I've read a few threads where people failed at insulating the slab and were just pumping heat in to the ground.

Tango Charlie · 04-08-09, 07:56 AM

Make it as big as you can afford to make it. You may be hosting a TV show in there one day, and you're gonna need extra room for the camera crew...

Attach it to the house. You live in Wisconsin, remember?

I've worked in aircraft hangars that had doors constructed of translucent fiberglass panels. On a cold winter day, it was impressive how much solar heat came through. Of course, I'm sure just as much heat went OUT through the single layer paneling. For a home workshop, maybe doors with double-glazed solar glass panels in them would be more efficient.

wyatt · 04-08-09, 11:14 AM

You mentioned it being a pain to get a permit for building... Where I grew up in Wisconsin, you needed a permit only for NEW construction. One guy got around the law by buying a delapitated house, ripping half of it down, building half a house on the existing basement (connected to the existing house), then ripped down the rest and finished the house. BRAND NEW HOUSE with NO PERMITS. It is still considered the original house. Maybe this wouldn't work so well for you with a crumbling slab, but you can keep it in mind.

bennelson · 04-08-09, 01:21 PM

Hey Wyatt,

The garage is on the corner of TWO lot lines, so I need a variance no matter what.

What you just described is pretty much how my house was rebuilt though.

Ryland · 04-09-09, 08:44 AM

If you leave the walls that boarder the lot lines you should be able to claim that you are just repairing the old building, anything over $500 worth of work normally requires permits, but less permitting because it's not a new building, also no varrences I think, because it's not new.
I'm a fan of straw bale garages, built one a few years back when I was still building with straw, it was really nice all year round, now if you wood framed your walls, cement sided the outside and set straw in to the wood walls then stuco the inside building inspectors will give you a funny look but will loose any debates, it will also give you an R50 wall.
steel roof all the way, standing seem steel allows for some slick clamps that don't require holes in the roof to mount solar.
in heat slab... PEX in sand under the concreat, you will never have to worry about the slab shifting and cracking the pex, it will also give you more mass to keep the garage warm.

more later.

03-06-09, 01:39 PM	#11 (permalink)
TimJFowler Helper EcoRenovator Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Santa Fe, NM Posts: 79 Thanks: 0 Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts	Re: the big pine tree Ben, Can you post a few photos of the existing garage and surroundings, and a sketch of the site layout? What I'm wondering is if you can prune the lower branches on the pine tree to allow the winter sunlight to shine on the garage. I definitely understand not wanting to cut down the tree, but maybe you can keep the tree and still get some light. Curious, Tim (Support EcoRenovator.org & get rid of these annoying ads!) __________________ Sustainable. Practical. Local. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

04-08-09, 07:56 AM	#14 (permalink)
Tango Charlie Minister of Silly Walks Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 31 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Make it as big as you can afford to make it. You may be hosting a TV show in there one day, and you're gonna need extra room for the camera crew... Attach it to the house. You live in Wisconsin, remember? I've worked in aircraft hangars that had doors constructed of translucent fiberglass panels. On a cold winter day, it was impressive how much solar heat came through. Of course, I'm sure just as much heat went OUT through the single layer paneling. For a home workshop, maybe doors with double-glazed solar glass panels in them would be more efficient. __________________ -Terry

04-08-09, 11:14 AM	#15 (permalink)
wyatt Helper EcoRenovator Join Date: Jan 2009 Posts: 69 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Permit... You mentioned it being a pain to get a permit for building... Where I grew up in Wisconsin, you needed a permit only for NEW construction. One guy got around the law by buying a delapitated house, ripping half of it down, building half a house on the existing basement (connected to the existing house), then ripped down the rest and finished the house. BRAND NEW HOUSE with NO PERMITS. It is still considered the original house. Maybe this wouldn't work so well for you with a crumbling slab, but you can keep it in mind.

04-08-09, 01:21 PM	#16 (permalink)
bennelson Home-Wrecker Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: SE Wisconsin Posts: 184 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	Hey Wyatt, The garage is on the corner of TWO lot lines, so I need a variance no matter what. What you just described is pretty much how my house was rebuilt though. __________________ To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

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03-06-09, 02:14 PM	#12 (permalink)
Daox Administrator Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Germantown, WI Posts: 1,472 Thanks: 0 Thanked 14 Times in 12 Posts	That is an excellent idea Tim! Have you thought about moving your garage forward and maybe attaching it to your house?

04-09-09, 08:44 AM	#17 (permalink)
Ryland Apprentice EcoRenovator Join Date: Mar 2009 Posts: 249 Thanks: 0 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts	If you leave the walls that boarder the lot lines you should be able to claim that you are just repairing the old building, anything over $500 worth of work normally requires permits, but less permitting because it's not a new building, also no varrences I think, because it's not new. I'm a fan of straw bale garages, built one a few years back when I was still building with straw, it was really nice all year round, now if you wood framed your walls, cement sided the outside and set straw in to the wood walls then stuco the inside building inspectors will give you a funny look but will loose any debates, it will also give you an R50 wall. steel roof all the way, standing seem steel allows for some slick clamps that don't require holes in the roof to mount solar. in heat slab... PEX in sand under the concreat, you will never have to worry about the slab shifting and cracking the pex, it will also give you more mass to keep the garage warm. more later.