The Homemade Heat Pump Manifesto

[AC_Hacker]

NiHaoMike,

Great info...

I made my own vacuum pump from an old freezer compressor by replacing the oil with vacuum pump oil.

Can you say a bit more about using a freezer compressor as a vacuum pump?

What kind of vacuum levels were you able to pull?

I like the idea of a DIY vacuum pump!

Regards,

-AC_Hacker

[NiHaoMike]

Originally Posted by AC_Hacker

NiHaoMike,

Great info...



Can you say a bit more about using a freezer compressor as a vacuum pump?

What kind of vacuum levels were you able to pull?

I like the idea of a DIY vacuum pump!

Regards,

-AC_Hacker

Sam's Laser FAQ - Vacuum Technology for Home-Built Gas Lasers
I don't have a gauge that can precisely measure the vacuum level, but it pulls as low as the gauge set will measure. I estimate 1 Torr or so since it is a rotary compressor.

[cdig]

I have an old well on my property that we just recently decomissioned in favor of town water. In the geo_thermal manual you provided at the beginning of this thread there's a section on 'standing column well ground heat exchanger' ... thoughts?

How deep would the well have to be in order to work? The ground water is pretty high around here, so I don't think the well is very deep, but if I can use it instead of drilling a bunch of holes in my yard, why not right?

[AC_Hacker]

Originally Posted by cdig

I have an old well on my property that we just recently decomissioned in favor of town water. In the geo_thermal manual you provided at the beginning of this thread there's a section on 'standing column well ground heat exchanger' ... thoughts?

How deep would the well have to be in order to work? The ground water is pretty high around here, so I don't think the well is very deep, but if I can use it instead of drilling a bunch of holes in my yard, why not right?

The easiest & cheapest way is usually the best way.

However, in my explorations of alternative energy strategies, I am continually confronted by just what a tremendous amount of energy I use habitually without being aware of it. The alternative energy strategies usually involve using energy densities much lower than what is available with fossil fuels.

I got a taste of this when I hooked up my first experimental 400 watt heat pump to a 10 foot ground loop to see how much heat I could extract. Short story is that the loop froze solid in about 25 minutes.

There was heat in that loop, but my little 400 watt compressor was drawing the heat out at a much faster rate than the 10 foot loop could supply it. The ground gives up its heat, but gives up its heat very slowly.

In a few days, I should have the last of my loops completed and I'll have 240 feet of loop for the heat pump to draw heat from. I'm pretty confidant that my little heat pump won't be able to extract heat as fast as the ground can supply it.

cdig, I'm not sure where you live, but some things you'll need to know are:

1. What is the average ground temperature where you live? If you have a state office of energy, they should be able to tell you this. It will be aprox. the temperature at about 25 feet down. The baverage ground temp where I live (Western Oregon) is around 55 degrees F. However, the measurements I have gotten at the bottom of my holes is 53 degrees.

2. What are the heating degree days where you live throughout the year? This is a number that is used to calculate of how much heat will be required in your area.

3. What is the heat load of your house? You can get some computer programs that can give you a pretty close approximation of this for free.

Try something here:

home heat load calculator - Google Search

...here's one that might work for you:

Heat Load Calculator / Refined Home Renovation

You can also figure it pretty close from your heating bill. Look at the bill from the coldest month, convert it to BTUs per hour for that month. and maybe multiply the BTU per hour by 50% to account for energy use peaks.

Last winter, where I live, we had a really cold spell, and for that two week period, I turned off my gas heat and used only electric heaters which had watt meters (Kill-a-Watt) on each one, and I kept detailed records every 4 to 6 hours, so I know with a very high degree of confidence what my energy use baseline is.

4. What is the rate of energy transfer I can expect from my source? In your case, the well you're talking about. If you look through this blog (http://ecorenovator.org/forum/projec....html#post2787), I site a test that you can do on your own well to determine what the rate of heat out will be.

So you can experimentally determine the heat you can get from your well, divide that into your calculated or measured peak heat load and see what percentage of your heat you'll be able to get from your well.

If it is over 100%, you are indeed in fat city!

If it's somewhat less than 100%, you can use your well as an adjunct to your existing heating setup and save some money.

If it's pretty tiny, like for instance only 5%, then you know that if you had 20 such wells, you'd be back in fat city.

I did exactly this procedure, and my calculations came out to 15.4 holes, so I'm going for 16.

I'm also going for a lot more insulation.

Hope this all helps...

Best Regards,

-AC_Hacker

[AC_Hacker]

Last Thursday, I had made great progress having finished the fifteenth hole.

I also suffered a setback when the pully which is at the top of my drill set-up failed.

I was trying to extract an auger from the hole #16 and the forces generated by the 2000 pound winch easily deformed it.

I wasn't terribly surprised as the pully was actually made for reeling in clothes line. I had estimated correctly that it was a good match for the manual winch, but the power winch was just too much for the light assembly.

So I bought a winch-grade pully and rebuilt the pully-carrier, this time with much stouter steel.

Problem resolved.

So now, with the show...



Regards,

-AC_Hacker

[Daox]

Wow, 15 holes. You're getting close now.

[AC_Hacker]

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* * LOOP SPACERS * *

There's one important detail I forgot to post earlier, so I'm apending it to this post...

I read that the performance of the boreholes is improved by keeping the 'down-the-hole' and 'returning' pipes separated as much as possible. There is a commercial product that is available that does an excellent job I am sure. But I made my own out of thin-wall irrigation tubing I had laying around and some bicycle tubes cut into strips. The local bike store most likely has a barrel filled with dead inner tubes, just waiting for you to come get some.

I put the spacers on the loop pipe at intervals of 3 to 5 feet.

In the beginning of this project, I bought 100 feet of thinwall 1/2 inch irrigation tube for $10. I soon realized that it would be crushed by the weight of the earth, so I didn't use it, and I had 'munged it up' enough that I couldn't take it back either. But it did turn out to be very useful for tubing spacers.

In the picture at the top are some spacers I cut from the plastic tubing. Since the holes varied in size, I cut a large number all at once, but varying in length from 4 to 7 inches, to fit various situations.

The photo on the bottom shows some strips of bike tires I cut into strips to use for tying the spacer-tubes onto the poly pipe loops.

I looped the tire strip around the poly pipe as shown in the photo below:

The photo above show how I passed the tire strip ends through the small tube.

And tied the free ends around the other leg of the poly pipe loop as shown in the photo below.

The photo above shows the spacerin place, doing its job of keeping the poly loop pipes spread apart. One nice thing about the thinwalled irrigation pipe is that if I mis-calculated the width of the borehole and put in a spacer that was too big, the thin-walled tubing would collapse a bit.

Toward the end of this phase of the project, I developed an alternate method which may be more appealing, and that was to make a wire hook out of coat hanger wire to be used with rubber bands cut from a fat tire bike tube. I tried a mountain bike sized tube for making rubber bands, even cutting them at a diagonal, and they were just a little bit short. I didn't try it, but I think that a 'fat-tire' innertube would be just right.

Upper picture shows the hook, with an orange ribbon attached to aid visibility, the tube spacer, and a diagonal-cut rubber band.

As shown in the bottom pic,the rubber band would be slipped over one leg of the loop, then the wire hook would be pushed through the spacer tube, hooking the rubber band. Then the hooked rubber band end would be pulled through the tube and slipped over the remaining leg of the loop. Several of these would be put over the loop, then slid into place at desired intervals.

I tried this method toward the end of the hole drilling phase, and it was just about as fast as the tying method, using cut strips, and I could see that with a bit of practice, the new method would go faster than tying.


Regards

-AC_Hacker

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[dremd]

WOW man
MAD props!

EDIT:
Just saw you notes above about VAC pump.
If you are going for cheap http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=96677 is impossible to beat; you will need a big air compressor to run it; but if you are doing this , once per year you could borrow one . . . mine pegs my automotive HVAC A/C gauge every time.

I also own http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=66466
Works well also (I use if for My bio-diesel pickup tank). If you want you can take advantage of Harbor Freight tools lax return policy and "rent" one if you are careful not to scratch/ get it dirty.

[Daox]

Alright! Congrats on getting all the holes done!

Next is trenching?

[AC_Hacker]

dremd,

> WOW man
> MAD props!

Thanks, it was a ton of work (actually 8 tons of work)!

Originally Posted by dremd

WOW man
If you are going for cheap - Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices is impossible to beat; you will need a big air compressor to run it; but if you are doing this , once per year you could borrow one . . . mine pegs my automotive HVAC A/C gauge every time.

The manifold gauges get non-linear near the end of their scale which is very unfortunate, because we really need to know what is happening at that end to be successful.

I found a very useful link to vacuum equivalents here:

Vacuum Pressure - Converting Units

...probably a good idea to bookmark AND print it out and tape it to the inside of your HVAC tool box (I have one in mine).

The venturi-type vacuum pump you linkled to (HF #96677) is able to hit 28.3" of mercury at sea level. So this would be 'Inches Mercury Gauge' on the chart. Notice that this is around 94.8% vacuum. For HVAC work, we need to pull down to at least 80 microns (99.995% vacuum) and hold it there for a while to let all the moisture that may be in the system turn into vapor and get sucked out by the vacuum pump. It's true that the venturi-type vacuum pump may peg your manifold gauge, but the extra vacuum is where the de-moisturization magic happens.

The micron gauges use the principle that heat dissapates very poorly in a total vacuum. The gauge has a tiny heater and a tiny thermocouple together in the space that is getting vacuumed. While there is air, etc in that space, the heat dissipates well. As a vacuum is approached, the heat dissipates progressively less well, and the temperature rises. The thermocouple measures this heat rise and turns that data into vacuum readings.

The other pump you linked to (HF #66466), the Two Stage 3 CFM Air Vacuum Pump would work just fine.

Might want to keep your eye peeled for a good micron gauge to show up on ebay. I bit the bullet and bought one new.

Best Regards,

-AC_Hacker