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Old 07-16-17, 09:42 PM   #41
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I don't care what anybody says, BMW's are cool. An 02 or 3 series from the 70's still beats the crap out of a Ford fusion or Lincoln mkz IMHO. Ecoboost my butt.

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Old 07-17-17, 08:50 AM   #42
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Even the 2010 328i xDrive? My kid's car is not so cool..
It needs more R134a, and some sealer!!
I'll have to get my Freon sensor under the hood to see what's going on..

I told her to run the AC in the winter a few times. But does she? I wonder..
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Old 07-18-17, 12:52 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff5may View Post
Sounds like it's time to make a decision. I have very little confidence in the stop leak product. It may get you through the summer though.

I chopped up a brand new can tapper this year to use with my gauge set. The truck needed a flush and fill after a compressor burnout and the Saturn blew the thermal fuse embedded inside the magnetic clutch. All of the can taps that had flare (acme) fittings on them were car size and wouldn't fit my home size gauge set. So I bought one of these:

I put access valve tubes just like the one in your unit on the ends of the hoses.

Now both halves connect right up to my gauge set.

Jeff,
How did you get the copper tubes sealed into the tube?
The copper OD is a pretty good match for the ID of the hose..
But, the inside of the hose is smooth and the copper is smooth..
There is oil inside the tube, w/ the clamp tight the copper slides right out!
I think the R410a is going blow that copper right across the room!



PS: I'm going to use the empty can to test for hose leakage..

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Old 07-18-17, 09:38 PM   #44
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Use a flaring tool to expand the end a little bit.
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Old 07-18-17, 10:26 PM   #45
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What Mike said. I usually just put 2 hose clamps on the junction. The fuel injection hose clamps work better than the plain Jane band clamps. If you have worries about slippage, use a double flare adapter on the open end of your access valve tube. Usually it is a two step process, where you use the adapter to bend the tube first, then flare the end back on itself with the "regular" flare die.

To make a "double bubble" on the end, the adapter is put over the tube sticking out of the vice and run down a little bit. The adapter is also used as a depth Gage to set the tubing stickout height from the top of the tubing vice. That's it. Looks like this when it's done:


Works like magic.

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Old 07-18-17, 11:23 PM   #46
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I was thinking about using a flare, but dismissed it as being too sharp on the edge.
But that bubble thing looks really nice. However, I don't have any adapters.

I've got some slightly larger copper tube, I can slip some on the end and braze it on..
I'll check it out tomorrow, too sleepy now..

Thanks,
Rich
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Old 07-19-17, 06:33 AM   #47
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The FLAPS has the complete set ( like the first pic in my previous post) as part of the loaner tool stock. The zone and pep boyz has OEM brand, advance has auto craft brand. Deposit is around 30 bucks. When I am assembling an experimental rig out of stuff lying around, I double flare the sketchy tubing to make sure it doesn't fail because of a thin, brittle, or otherwise crappy flare joint.

The adapter set can be found by itself, but is usually the same price as the loaner set from the FLAPS. Harbor freight carries the whole set and it's about 20 bucks. eBay and Amazon and Walmart and other online stores are hit and miss as to the quality of the product, but offer comparable stuff for however much you want to spend.

If you want to braze something to the end instead, the compression fitting sleeves work well. I have done that for fuel lines before, and they work just fine as well.

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Old 07-22-17, 06:48 PM   #48
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Well, I have two cans of sealer. One for the Santa Fe and one for the BMW.
The braze work and tested to 130 PSI.
Seems like it's about time to inject some sealer into the the Santa Fe.

However, I've been checking the Santa Fe (daily) for leakage and watching it's performance.
It's running great and the leakage seemed to have dropped to undetectable..
I wonder if running it everyday has slowed or stopped the leakage.?.
I've been getting very good operation and 20 to 22 deg F output temp gain..

Maybe I should wait a while before adding in the Pro Seal..?.

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